The kimono, a rich, intricate garment traditionally worn by geisha and samurai for many centuries, is experiencing a vibrant revival, now highly valued for a principle that holds greater significance than ever: sustainability. A true silk kimono, literally meaning "something that is worn," can endure for a century or more.
In Japanese households, it is passed down through generations akin to treasured jewelry, artwork, and military honors. It never loses its appeal. The style of the kimono alongside the "obi" sash has remained largely unchanged since the Edo period of the 17th century, often portrayed in Akira Kurosawa's samurai films.
However, nowadays, some individuals are adopting a new creative perspective, giving the traditional kimono a modern twist, also disassembling and resewing them into jackets, dresses, and pants. “I observed that many stunning kimonos simply remain unused in people's closets. Such a loss,” shared Mari Kubo, who runs a kimono-remaking enterprise known as K’Forward, pronounced as "K dash forward."
Hers is part of a growing trend in such businesses, which also transform old kimonos into tote bags and dolls. The most sought-after items at Kubo’s shop are “tomesode,” a kind of formal kimono that is black adorned with vibrant, embroidered flowers, birds, or foliage at the hem. Moreover, she assembles matching combinations, referred to as “set-ups.”
A tomesode is fashioned into a jacket keeping its long, flowing sleeves and detailed patterns centered on the back. She then selects a kimono with a complementary pattern to fashion a skirt or trousers to pair with the top. Occasionally, an obi is utilized at the neckline to introduce a burst of color.
Kubo mentioned that a significant portion of her customers comprises young adults desiring to embrace a kimono without the complexities. Remade kimonos at K’Forward can reach prices of up to 160,000 yen (approximately $1,000) for a “furisode,” a vibrant kimono featuring long sleeves intended for unmarried women, while a black tomesode is priced around 25,000 yen (approximately $160).
What Tomoko Ohkata cherishes most about her creations made from old kimonos is that she can act without guilt and believes she is contributing to addressing an environmental issue. “I believe the solution was right in front of us, passed down from our forebears,” she remarked. Recycling centers in Japan receive thousands of old kimonos daily as individuals discover them tucked away in closets belonging to parents and grandparents.
Currently, kimonos are usually worn only during special events like weddings. Many women opt for a Western-style white wedding gown instead of a kimono or choose to wear both. A lot of Ohkata’s customers are those who have unearthed a kimono at home and wish to breathe new life into it.
They value the history associated with the kimono, she noted. Her compact shop located in central Tokyo showcases an assortment of dolls, including a samurai alongside his wife, a traditional pair displayed in Japanese households during the Girls’ Day festival celebrated on March 3 each year.
However, the dolls in her shop are beautifully adorned in recycled kimonos, custom-made in miniature dimensions suitable for the dolls. A pair is offered for sale at 245,000 yen ($1,600). The classic kimono style is experiencing a revival. “Unlike other clothing, it can be styled in different ways,” explains Nao Shimizu, the director of a school in Kyoto, Japan's historic capital, that instructs individuals on the art of wearing a kimono and the proper posture while adorned in it.
“You can master the entire process in six months,” she stated, energetically showing various methods to tie the obi, which can convey a range of feelings from whimsical to subtle. Shimizu added that in addition to its longevity, the kimono's adaptability contributes to its eco-friendliness.
Younger generations in Japan are adopting a more carefree approach, pairing kimonos with boots, she noted with amusement. In contrast, kimonos have traditionally been paired with sandals known as "zori." Though donning a kimono in the traditional fashion requires a certain level of expertise, individuals can receive instruction from teachers like Shimizu, similar to learning how to play a musical instrument.
Professional assistance is also offered at beauty salons, hotels, and various retail outlets. Most individuals in Japan may wear a kimono only a few times throughout their lives. Nevertheless, the experience of wearing one is unforgettable.
Sumie Kaneko, a performer skilled in traditional Japanese instruments such as the koto and shamisen, frequently showcases her talents in vibrant outfits made from recycled kimonos.
She emphasizes that the concept of sustainability is deeply embedded in Japanese heritage, highlighting the scarcity of ivory and animal hides that are now difficult to source for her musical instruments.
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